Having hiked 150 miles in 8 days 2 years ago we felt that hiking 177 miles in 10 days should be achievable without too many problems. What we did not count on however, was the sheer number of 'undulations' the Welsh countryside had to throw at us! On numerous occasions we would reach the summit of a huge hill only to find it wasn't the top! These continuous ups and downs had a huge effect both physically and mentally forcing us to dig deep into our reserves of strength in order to get through each day. This only added to the sense of achievement we felt when reaching the summits where we were often rewarded with breathtaking views of beautiful countryside.
The weather was very good for the majority of the hike although the heat also hindered us as we lumbered up hills in the midday sun, huffing, puffing and streaming sweat. The other problem with all this sun was the need for water which we often ran short of. We took any opportunity to top up our water bottles at local pubs or to buy more water in any towns or villages we passed. The problem was that the trail did not often take us to places where we could do this and on a couple of occasions we had to go 2 days without finding anywhere to refill.
Starting late afternoon on the Monday in Prestatyn we were given an early taste of things to come. After walking through the town we started up a long hill which got gradually steeper before becoming what felt like a near vertical climb! The view of Prestatyn and the distant wind farms was the first of many photo opportunities.
On that first day we hiked out approx three miles before setting down in the corner of an empty field just outside Rhuallt and getting some sleep before starting the hike proper the following morning.
The next 11 days were truly some of the toughest we have endured. Our huge packs, loaded with everything we needed, weighed us down and made the hike more challenging than normal and limited us to a very casual pace. Injuries also took their toll. The steep climbs and descents of the Moels in Northern Wales made light work of our knees severely slowing us down and forcing us to shorten our hiking days in favour of longer rest and recovery periods. Later in the hike, as Knees recovered, blisters continued to slow the pace with numerous nasty blisters appearing all over our feet. Regular foot care stops became vital to ensure the problems were kept to a minimum. Essential to this foot care was the availability of clean, dry socks. A lack of clean socks prompted us to use a campsite for one night. A fellow Dyker recommended a camp-site just outside Knighton, £5 per person including the use of a shower. We took this showering opportunity to wash not just ourselves but some of our essentials mainly consisting of socks and underwear which we then had to dry in the sun over the next two days.
Everyone we met on the hike was very freindly. From fellow dykers and local farmers to shopkeepers and pub barmen (with the exception of one pub where the football seemed to be more important) all were accommodating and accepting often stopping for chats and taking an interest in what we were doing. This was a a pleasant contrast to what we are used to in London where people are seemingly more wary of one another and certainly less talkative.
Ther hike as a whole was pretty hard going but a few bits stand out as particularly challenging.
- Moel Fenlli was the first Moel we ascended and it set the tone fittingly. It was a long climb consisting of multiple steep slopes obscuring further slopes. We lost count of the number of times we thought we were approaching the summit only to find another steep climb in front of us.
- Moel Famau started with a long steep climb before levelling out for a few miles and then hitting a very steep and difficult slope. Annoyingly, the way down was a long gently sloping footpath that would have been a stroll in the park by comparison.
- The Shropshire Hills were probably the most demoralising part of the hike. We knew it would be hilly but the angles of those hills coupled with the fact that they were continuous and never-ending made for a torrid time. We were up and down, up and down all day with virtually no level areas.
- Having taken a detour to Tintern Abbey, the climb back onto the trail and up to Devils Pulpit was very tricky especially as rain had started to turn the ground into a mud-slide. With numerous fallen trees as obstacles and a sharp drop to the side of the narrow path leading into the river, the fact that we were doing it in the dark made for a properly treacherous hike... thankfully we survived it unscathed!
Many will be surprised not to see the massive ascent to the top of Hay Bluff on this list but this is one part of the hike where we expected the worst but were pleasantly surprised. As we approached the bottom of the bluff we could see a very steep and challenging climb with numerous people heaving themselves up, it didn't look good! But as we stuck to the official Offa's Dyke Path the signs took us to the side of the mountain and up a relatively gentle if slightly narrow and rocky slope upwards. On reaching the top we were left with a fairly level hike to the other end and a fairly gentle descent towards Pandy.
We have been asked a few times now whether we would do the hike again and/or recommend the trail to other people. Were we asked at the finishing line or indeed any time in the last few days of the hike our response would definitely have been a resounding "NO" to both questions.
On reflection however, there are certainly many positives to this hike. We saw fantastic countryside, we saw multiple sights of historic significance or natural beauty and we met a number of very friendly people. That said, we would definitely want to do the trail far slower and far more comfortably with regular use of camp sites and/or B+B's.
We passed numerous day-packers that did seem to be thoroughly enjoying their experiences and so if we did recommend this trail to
others we would almost certainly point out that doing it in sections a bit at a time is most likely the most enjoyable way to go.
That said, we are proud to have toughed it out, to have done it the difficult way and to have coped without many of the luxuries we take for granted in our everyday lives.
All in all the hike was tremendous fun but agonisingly painful. We were pushed to our limits and the torrential rain on the last night all but finished us off. The mixture of sore knees and blistered feet made for frustrating progress but has also added to the sense of achievement on completion. We are exhausted, battered, sore and delighted to have finished but also extremely pleased to have done it. Not only to have covered the distance but to have genuinely tested ourselves on some of the meanest and most unforgiving terrain in the country. To have pushed ourselves and each other through highs and lows, mental and literal, not to have surrendered and to have ensured completion whatever the costs.
Special Thanks
Special mention needs to go to a few people that helped us on the trail.
Marnie Roberts met us at Euston before we set off, providing us with a bag of high energy snacks which kept us fuelled for the first week.
Sab Bates provided us with refreshment and breakfast as well as invaluable local knowledge during the first few days of our expedition.
Ian Lawrence whom we met while drying our 'essentials' on a hilltop just outside Kington. Having stopped for a chat Ian went home before making a substantial donation to our cause.
Dave and Cathy Ryan who met us in Hay on Wye shortly before we tackled the massive Brecons climb. They bought us a
fantastic breakfast and then lightened our packs by taking excess items including dirty laundry which they also washed!
And finally, the very kind Judith who saw us waiting for a bus to Chepstow train station having completing the hike. Judith very kindly drove us direct to the train station despite the fact that we hadn't washed in a number of days and were still pretty wet from the previous night.
Massive thanks to Marnie, Sab, Ian, Judith Dave and Cathy. We are overwhelmed and eternally grateful for your acts of kindness, they shall not be readily forgotten.